How To Ride The Waves? Grace or Graze

Been through some waves over the last few years. The thing with riding waves is it's quite tiring. There's the concentration of staying the right way up, keeping your balance, the adrenal response, making you feel a bit worn out, the lows of going down perhaps never to come back up, the uncertainty of the surroundings - going up and down can be quite disorienting. There are undoubtedly the amazing highs of winning against all the odds which serve to make you stay the course. However, it's quite unimaginable when you are surfing in these high tides that others could be sitting in harbour somewhere drinking in the sunshine. It's quite shocking to think perhaps we could turn into the quiet square of blue and rest and relax. The guilt monkey looking at us amazed at our cheek for stepping off the merry go round. Perhaps that is as good a way to spend a day or even a life as surfing just because you can. So thinking about this I am not sure if it's just a response to a fatiguing set of waves and a sense of disorientation or a wisening up from experience that means you live and learn. How to enjoy life, enjoy challenge, enjoy whichever path is marked for you and yours? How to avoid being addicted to pressure and to challenge and to learn to treat these two imposters of success and failure the same. It's only Monday. Obviously the waters are deep today.